RT Pro is proud to say this kit WILL NOT cause any CV binding issues for your RZR. Not every mfg can say that. We know ours works because we’ve tested the kit and can honestly say the rear will not droop any lower than the factory setup. We achieve this by relocating the UPPER shock mounts and not the lowers. This method improves the shock angles which require a lower spring rate to hold the vehicle at ride height. When retaining the stock springs however, the ride height is raised. This kit will allow you to back the “clickers” on your shocks down and still have the desired height needed for that additional ground clearance. So you get two things with this kit. A taller ride height PLUS an improved ride! Actual height gains will vary but expect approximately 1.5” rear lift and 2” front. We’ve found our best performance with these machines by setting the fronts 0.5-1” taller.
OEM springs are known to sag. If you end up with less lift than expected and still have stock springs this may be the problem. The best ride and handling is usually found with the kit set at only about 1″ of lift so this might still be alright for you. If you don’t get all the height you want, consider one of our replacement spring kits for your model. Or, you can save 10% off each product when you purchase the lift and springs at the same time as a Bundle, available by clicking HERE for RZR 800 50″ models, or HERE for the 2014 RZR 800 XC. The combination of a lift kit with our replacement springs is the ultimate best bang for your buck when it comes to getting the ride height, handling and smooth ride you want without spending the big money on aftermarket shocks.
This kit is all bolt-on and the installation can be completed in less than 1.5 hours. There are four holes to be drilled in the rear of the frame for the ultimate in strength but this job is made simple by the very thorough instructions this kit comes with. This kit comes complete with all necessary components, hardware and instructions for complete installation. Kits are powdercoated black. THIS KIT WILL FIT STANDARD 50″ RZR. Please select which model you have above when purchasing. Sway bar links will not fit on 2012+ Walker Evans Editions.
Changes in Years
- 2008-2011 – All these years use the gold anodized replacement sway bar links shown in pictures. They are required to run a front sway bar with our kit for these years.
- 2012+ – In 2012 Polaris changed the design of it’s front sway bar requiring us to change our design. The RTP5101216 kits come with less expensive “spacers” to be installed under the upper bushings of the OEM sway bar. If you don’t run a front sway bar you can discard the spacers.Note: A very small percentage of 2012+ Canada and Mexico built RZR’s are having some hole alignment issues with our rear lift brackets. This is a minor issue and VERY rare. However, we have addressed this in our instructions and have a alternative solution for the customers who may not have the means to install on these machines. Please note this is ONLY a potential issue for 2012+ RZR’s and is EXTREMELY RARE and MINOR.
NOTE: Both kits offered on this page are the exact same except for the front sway bar components.
RTP5101215 (w/ gold sway bar links) – Fits
- 2008-2011 RZR 800 50″ w/ front sway bar
- 2011 RZR 800 50″ Walker Evans Edition w/ front sway bar
- RTP5101216 (w/ spacers for front sway bar) – Fits
- 2008+ RZR 800 50″ w/ front sway bar removed (discard spacers)
- 2012+ RZR 800 50″ with front sway bar
- 2012+ RZR 800 50″ Walker Evans Edition (can’t run front sway bar with this lift kit – discard spacers)
- 2014 RZR 800 XC 55″ (can’t run front sway bar with this lift kit – discard spacers)
- Here is a independently produced video covering the installation of this kit on a RZR S. Every aspect of this video installation applies to a 50″ RZR as well.
We get a lot of questions about this lift kit. Here is a comprehensive list of the most frequent questions we answer. We decided to put the answers here in one place to try and save everyone some time and confusion. Please read through all of these before calling with questions:
Q. I’ve heard about lift kits that relocate the lower shock mounts and they are cheaper. Why is your’s different
A.“Lower Relocation” style lift kits add more angle to your CV joints which will cause failure. The sellers always say they don’t and others have said they haven’t had issues but we’ve heard otherwise a LOT through the years and the laws of physics can prove it… This style kit simply moves the stroke of the suspension down lower. This means hubs are lower at full extension. The CV’s have to go beyond they’re intended limits to travel with the hubs and this is what causes CV problems. Our kit controls the amount of droop the suspension has to eliminate this issue.
Q. I’ve heard about lifting the machine with different/stiffer springs. Why isn’t this the same thing as your lift kit?
A.Improved springs are great and we sell those too. The problem with “lifting” with springs is the ride IS made harsher and much more stiff. Again, this is physics at work. You can get the lift and springs will not increase the CV angle at full extension but there is a trade off.
Q. What’s the largest tire size I can run with this lift kit?
A. We have never found a 27″ tire that wouldn’t fit as long as the wheels aren’t extremely wide or more of a negative offset than OEM steel wheels. Most 28″ tires will fit as well but some will require some trimming of the passenger side outer motor mount. Anything bigger than 28’s is up to you.
Q. Will this kit make my RZR narrower / wider?
A. It will actually make it narrower. Usually 3/8-1/2″ per side. An easy way to see how this works is to jack the machine up about 2″ higher than it currently sits and watch the arms droop down and bring the hubs closer to the center.
Q. Will this lift kit make my RZR tipsier?
A. Any time you raise a vehicles center of gravity will get a little tipsier due to the weight getting higher. However, our kit will definitely give the least effect. Part of our design was done to counter act the raised center of gravity. By spacing out the distance from upper shock mount to mount, we are able to essentially “trick” the roll axis of the machine by requiring more leverage to make the body roll. At the same time this is happening, the shocks are also a bit better positioned to hold up against the weight of the vehicles weight shifting due to the improved operating angle of the shock. Ultimately, the final performance ends up being, in most customers’ eye’s, equal to or better than OEM handling and tipsiness.
Q. Will this kit cause issues with the CV joints on a 2011+ RZR?
A. This is as common a question as it is a good question. There are many lift kits out there which bind CV’s and cause lots of issues down the road. Our kit is not one of them.
There are a lot of people talking about CV issues with the 2011 RZR’s. The truth is Polaris did go to a smaller axle and CV assembly which makes it a bit weaker. The geometry of the suspension however, has not
changed at all. Therefore our kit works the same way as it always has. The CV’s max operating angle is still the same so there is no bind. The issue really comes into play when people start adding larger tires or
more power. The drive axles on the 2011 can’t handle as much as the old ones so they break or wear out and start acting like they’re binding. This all boils down to an issue with the axles and not so much the lift kit.
Q. Doesn’t the more vertical position of the shocks/springs reduce total suspension travel?
A. The more vertical shock angles will reduce the travel slightly but in this case it’s only about half an inch. We’ve found the change to be negligible. The travel is taken from the up-stroke so the suspension actually bottoms out with a half inch MORE ground clearance. The other aspect to consider is the improved shock geometry puts the shock where it should be originally and this makes for improved handling and stability which nicely counter acts the raised center of gravity. We firmly believe in the theory that good travel is better than more travel.
Q. What should I do first? A lift kit or replacement springs? Aren’t the OEM springs junk anyways?
A. We feel if any changing will be done to a suspension, the first thing to do is fix the geometry. This will make everything else you do afterwards different. If you put on a spring kit to get lift and then add a lift kit later, the ride will most likely be harsh. If you start with a lift and then add springs we can recommend the best rate option to you then. The lift will change and improve the geometry. The springs will adjust the ride height only. Aftermarket springs do improve ride and handling in our case but their primary purpose is just that. Springs are not necessarily to designed to lift the vehicle. The lift is a byproduct. We are aware there are other companies who are trying to imply their springs will do everything at once and get a lift but you must consider the same laws of physics apply to them as well.
Q. Will this kit work with aftermarket/dual exhaust?
A. We use to have a different rear bracket for the Muzzy’s Exhaust to clear. Now we have adapted a more universal kit to clear most aftermarket exhaust. We’ve yet to find a system that can not be made to work with our lift kit. Some require modification of the exhaust brackets but never our kit.