Thank you for your purchase! We hope you will find this kit as useful as we have. This is a pretty straight forward installation but here are some guidelines to help you along:
Along with your kit, you should have received the following:
(2) – Long Radius Rod tubes
(2) – Short Radius Rod tubes
(4) – Right hand heim joints
(4) – Left hand heim joints
(4) – Right hand heim joints
(4) – Left hand jam nuts
(4) – Long high misalignment spacers
(12) – Short high misalignment spacers
Note: If you only ordered half of this kit you will have exactly half of what is listed here. Likewise, only half of the following instructions will pertain to your installation. Use the details for the kit you purchased.
Step 1 – Jack up the rear of the vehicle and rest on solid jack stands. You do not need to remove the wheels but it makes the job MUCH easier.
Step 2 – One the weight is off the suspension you can disassemble the OEM Radius Rod assembly. You will disregard the rods but you MUST keep track of the hardware as this will be reused with your kit.
Step 3 – Assemble the RT Pro Radius Rods: Note: There is a right hand and a left hand tube insert per each rod. The left hand threads are indicated by a small ring machined around the tube insert for your convenience.
Lower Rods – These were designed to be assembled with the threads of the heims fully bottomed out. When assembled there should be no threads showing on the heims. This is done to reduce the level of difficulty when it comes time to align the suspension and also to maximize the strength of the system.
Upper Rods – Assemble these rods in the same manner as the lowers but leave ¼” of thread exposed (with the jam nut finger tight) on both ends. This is designed into the kit to optimize the level of functional adjustability. It is important to make sure the exposed threads are as close as possible to the same on both ends of these rods but really only to the tolerances of a tape measure.
You can wait to tighten the jam nuts on all rods until the very last step. It will be easier to tighten them at this point plus you will need to set the static camber setting before you’re done.
Step 4 – It is now time to install the rods on the RZR. The supplied spacers/bushings are high misalignment spacers. They are designed to allow maximum articulation while filling the gap in fitment left by the new heim joints.
The 4 longer/wider spacers are for the inner pivot points on the frame. They need to be what touches off on the chassis. They are longer so there will be clearance for the larger diameter tube to clear the chassis when it is in motion.
Step 5 – Once all the Radius Rods are installed, all the mounting hardware can be tightened except for the jam nuts on the heim joints for the upper Radius Rods. The lower rods can be tightened.
At this point the wheels can be put back on and the RZR can be lowered back on to the ground.
Step 6 – Alignment –
The alignment is easiest to do with toe plates off the side of the tires. Measurement is best done with some form of an angle finder. It can be done though with almost anything that can be trusted as a flat surface to rest against the sidewall of the tire and a bubble level. With some form of a plate you must use some form of an angle reader to measure the static camber setting of the wheels. This setting is taken from the vehicles settled ride height. It’s best to take it to the end of the driveway and back to settle the suspension. For some reason jumping up and down on it in place doesn’t have the same effect. Once the suspension is settled the ideal static camber setting we’ve found is 0°. This is easy to set with a bubble level in this case. To fine tune the settings, turn the upper radius rods as you would a tie rod. One way will make it longer and the other direction will make it shorter. This will bring the top of the tires in or out. Positive camber is when the top off the tires lean out wider than the bottoms. Negative camber is of course when the tops of the tires are inwards more towards the center of the vehicle than the bottoms of the tires.
The RZR XP has some less than desirable handling characteristics in the rear end. We’ve found with a little positive camber it can reduce these effects. Another improvement found by running positive camber in the rear is the machine will turn more quickly by bringing around the rear end faster in a turn. Setting too much positive camber can however make the machine feel too slippery. By slippery we mean the back end slides too much and try’s to swap out at speed.
We recommend trying different settings and finding out what works best for you. Each driver and each application is different and there’s no right or wrong way to do this within reason. Our recommended limit of reason is plus or minus 2°.
Step 7 – Once the alignment is complete, tighten the upper jam nuts on the heim joints and double check all the other fasteners once over to verify they are tight.
Once this is complete you installation is complete.
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